Day 1: Abidjan, September, 2023
Image taken at the Bushman Cafe in Abidjan.
Initially, I was drawn to the histories of headwraps and how they have informed ways of being in Abidjan, Côte d’Ivoire but because there is an exciting movement that is occurring in Abidjan with African women artists, gallery owners, and creative entrepreneurs who are at the forefront of redefining, reclaiming and reimagining art; my research project shifted. Westerners refer to Abidjan as the Paris of West Africa because of the dazzling lights, fashion, nightlife and culture. Abidjan is a city that should stand alone, it should not be compared to a western framework. Particularly fashion, art and creative spaces in Abidjan are special because artists have forged an African framework that is rooted in history, thought, and critical analysis that is not a replication of a European or a Western way of thinking and creating. Rather a critique or a discussion around Europe’s influence. Artists have always been gesturing to move away from Europe particularly France and I am interested in this motion away from. I am deeply invested in artistic productions and spaces that continue to center Black women and femmes’ narratives. My interests in the African diaspora has led me to think about women-led creative spaces in Abidjan; whether it is an art gallery, festive parties, or positions of employment within the art world. I came to Abidjan because of my interests in African diasporic art productions, curatorial practices and creative entrepreneurship particularly led by Black women and femmes. During my trip I would meet with and interview artists, creative entrepreneurs, modern art specialists and exhibition coordinators, gallery owners, and gallery managers. I came to Abidjan in search of these creative spaces that are an oasis for artists and creative thinkers. What do safe spaces for women and femme creatives look like in Abidjan today? How are women self-fashioning themselves through style, music and art? I asked these questions to all of the people I met and the answers have often remained the same that are not creative spaces that are solely dedicated to women but there are many new spaces that have been founded by women. I came across a multitude of new creative spaces that held innovative exhibitions, and parties.
A selfie with the artist Mariette Kouame.
Arriving in Abidjan, instantly I felt as if the city was singing. Aretha Franklin sang wishfully in my ears, on my wired earphones as I was welcomed by Ivorian blue skies and trees that are large and full with banana leaves. There was a line of honking cars outside of the airport. Families dressed elegantly waiting on their ride as I stood right beside a sea of Ivorians wearing perfumes, funky shoes and stylish heels as I searched for my cab. I felt and looked underdressed wearing my oversized army cargo pants, and a Black Women Radical’s hoodie while I held my luggage.
Once my cab arrived, I was happy to be seated in the back of a taxi after a thirty hour plane ride. I insisted for the windows to be rolled down because I wanted to hear the streets of Abidjan. I paused my Aretha Franklin playlist and braced myself to hear the loud beeping horns of large trucks carrying lumber and feel the cool wind from speeding motorcycles passing by. I was taken aback as I witnessed a man riding a small motorcycle decorated with live clucking chickens in the front and back of his bike. The chickens were on their way to the butchery and I am sure they knew it.
Taken by Zainab Floyd.
French and Nouchi (an Ivorian French based creole) colored the streets of Le Plateau. People stood by the bus stop on their way from work, or school. Lovers walked hand in hand on the sidewalk along of the black smooth concrete street. Tucked on the side of the road there was a decadent colorful garden with all kinds of vibrant small, and medium flowers. Children played tag as their heavy school bags bounced up and down creating a funny run that made me laugh. My taxi driver spoke about his children, and his love for his country. He listened as I spoke about my family, and what brought me to Abidjan. My conversation with the taxi driver provided an insight for the warm introductions and personable conversations I would continue to have in Abidjan which led for a welcoming introduction into my interviews.
(Volume 1)
